¡Vive Christina! (and Nestor too)

Two Sundays ago Argentina held the much awaited presidential election. Anticipation brewed the week before: By how much will Christina win? Nobody doubted that the reigning Presidenta Christina Fernández would be re-elected, but by how much was the real debate. Turns out, by a landslide. She took 53.96% of the votes with the closest candidate at a fraction of that amount. Many say it was due to a lack of organized competition, her success among the poor, rural communities, and of course because the love that many people still have for her husband and former president, the deceased Nestor Kirchner. The latter being an obvious campaigning tool used by Frente para la Victoria party in posters littering every open space featuring Nestor and his wife, Christina at his side. Almost as if he were running, not the actual President herself.

The post win celebration, announced just a couple of hours after the polls closed, was quite the event. We passed by the hotel at which the President was staying and filmed some of the most passionate supporters on our way to Plaza de Mayo where everyone was decked out in Christina gear, listening to blaring music, shooting fireworks, and of course drinking beer. From 6 o'clock the night before a 'dry' mandate required that no alcohol be sold or consumed in public spaces, bars, or liquor stores, but the moment those polls closed, it was right back to normal. We spent about an hour wandering the plaza, climbing ladders for better angles, and taking in the atmosphere, very similar to a celebration we may see in the states after elections. Our friend Chris was even interviewed by a radio station curious as to how these elections differ from those in the US. The biggest difference? A compulsory vote. That's right. Argentinians are required to vote, being charged a fine if any of the squares in their identity card is missing the official stamp. I'm still hesitant to be convinced that this is an effective measure in a democratic society, but most locals I've spoken with fully believe in the voting system. If only they could get some variety in their presidential candidate options!

For those of you more curious about me than Christina, I can say that the past couple of weeks have been...eventful. Kristin and I spent a few days in the 'mansion' but left after the vacationers decided not to stay in our apartment. After being shoved into a shared room in the attic of a big beautiful house, losing a bag during the bustle, having some crazy conversations and uncomfortable run ins with the landlord, we were definitely ready to come 'home'. Because that's what it has become. Our little pad dubbed 'La Morena' has been more than a place to rest our sleepy adventure filled heads. Other than the missing bag, I really couldn't be happier! xo

The Streets

One of the most fascinating and entertaining things about moving to a new city are the simple pleasures found when exploring the foreign streets. Just yesterday, Kristin and I were reflecting on the pride we feel when each day we take a different form of transportation (bus, subway, taxi, bike, on foot) to a new part of Buenos Aires. Therefore, we have had no lack of quirky discoveries. And the avid bloggers that we are, we never neglect to bring along our cameras which have served very useful when stumbling across things like dog walkers with over 20 dogs, street signs signaling an old-woman-lugging-groceries-home crossing, and meat trucks publicly exposing their goods.

Another common occurrence are protests held in the plazas and streets just blocks from our apartment.They often create huge traffic jams and are attended by people from all different walks of life. One ongoing march is by teachers whowant to maintain their benefits: One day for the last two weeks, two days for this week and next, and three days for the following two if they are unsatisfied. And we thought the French were bad! Plaza Congreso and Plaza de Mayo are home to some of the most politically charged buildings: Congress, the President's office (who happens to be a female!), IRS building, Federal Bank, pretty much every important government sector. Along with the Mothers of the Disappeared who march every Thursday afternoon in Plaza de Mayo to represent the almost 30,000 individuals who went 'missing' on account of the dirty war during the military dictatorship of the late 70s early 80s, there are countless impromptu and planned events. We stumble across several a week and following is a pic of the aftermath. Plenty to clean!

A few more adventures: The only skate park I've seen is placed directly next to the American embassy and is a rather disappointing display of cement and graffiti.

AND Successful-business-man-gleefully-swinging-a-briefcase-as-he-skips crossing?

Lastly, a pleasant and abnormally uncrowded ride on our preferred form of city transport, the antique trolley car subway. Buenos Aires is home to the first underground system in the Southern Hemisphere and is one of the busiest metros in the world. The A Line of the Subte system consists of many renovated trolley cars that used to run through the cobbled streets of Buenos Aires. The historic rails seen throughout San Telmo (a bikers enemy, as I discovered after crashing to the ground when one got in my way), along with the A line are reminders of a shift toward modernity, but with a hint of nostalgia.

Tomatitos Loquitos

In good Latin American fashion, Argentina took the opportunity to celebrate a senseless holiday on Monday: Columbus Day. Again, not exactly sure why the US celebrates a Columbus Day, but far more confusing is why Argentina does... Anyway, with no school and most businesses closed, we took full advantage of the 'empty' city streets. Holidays are bar far the best time for picture taking: no one to obstruct the shot, fewer menacing stares from locals, and less traffic (perfect for middle of the street pics!). As we ventured into MicroCentro it became clear that avoiding the famous Valle street has been one of our best decisions to date.

Tourists don't stay in on bank holidays and they definitely B-line for the Valle area. The famous pedestrian path through the city center, lined by historic buildings and flooded with overzealous leather, shoe, and plastic crap from China salesmen is obviously a recommended destination by the various local hotels. However, given the cliche tourist trap nature, I found myself randomly entertained and intrigued. Top of the list: Man yelling "Tomatitos Loquitos" (Little crazy tomatoes) and smashing gooey, mushy toys against hard surfaces and watching them reform into a nice perfectly round, tomatoey shape. Should have got a picture cause for some reason it really cracked me up! But our real purpose for a trip to the gauntlet was to find the highly discounted ticket booth to purchase our La Bomba de Tiempo tickets.

The most entertaining show I've seen in BA, encompassed in an incredible environment, I had heard about several times, but finally made it to last night. La Bomba de Tiempo is a percussionist group started early 2006 and is now a permanent show on Monday nights. The unconventional techniques of the conductor are almost as entertaining as the music itself and the guest sax player mixed it up with a flute! The energy pulsing through the constantly dancing crowd struck a cord with me because I LOVE to dance. Better yet, upon leaving, the hippies slinging food on the street, pan relleno (stuffed bread) and tacos (with lentils and YaYa Bean hot sauce) really clinched it for me: La Bomba has not seen the last of this gringa! xo

She's a Workin' Woman Now

It all started one warm Colorado day in August when she made a simple suggestion.

We were on our way to BA and needed some advice.

Where to go? What to see? Who to meet?

She said Robin with Biking Buenos Aires and we were sold.

Cruising through a foreign city on two wheels.

Covering ground quickly and efficiently.

Couldn't have been a better afternoon.

Accompanied by two visiting Germans and of course our knowledgable guide,

we saw every last bit of the Northern half and learned more than our fill of historical facts.

It wasn't until a few weeks later,

after Emily had gone home and I was settling in,

We (my new bestie and I) were invited to a nice little evening at La Puerta Roja.

We met Troy, Mike Mundo, Willie, and Roddy

pals of Robin, Colorado native and tour guide, who had introduced us to the BA bike scene.

(This poetic theme must stop, it's taking too much Monday morning brain power!)

After a few beers with the guys I began to think that their business sounded like fun, not to mention the realization that if I continue to drink beers I wouldn't have enough money to get a cab home, and I thought, "Maybe I need to get a job". So, after making a few witty comments about how I may be exceptionally skilled at riding bikes, how entertaining I find bike maintenance and how I've always wanted to be a tour guide, they asked me to come in for an interview the following week. All said and done, they must have liked me because I am now a tour guide for Biking Buenos Aires!!!!! Big applause from those back home I hope :)

Below are a couple of pictures from my first days of training. Karry, the Finnish world traveler next to me was also hired last week so we'll be sharing the newbie duties. This shot is in front of the Faculty of Law which is the biggest university building in BA and offers both undergrad and post graduate studies. Public education, through undergrad is free of charge and a fun fact: after a student graduates they walk through the front doors of the building and are egged and floured. If you see someone walking down the street covered in a weird looking pasty, crusty, dough carrying a bouquet of flowers don't be alarmed.

The other pic is of a fire started in the Ecological Reserve to the East side of the city (part of our South tour) in Puerto Madero. Probably a cigarette, but the fire brigade arrived shortly there after and promptly doused the brush, eliminating any threat to the hundreds of rubberneckers.

Now that I've joined the black market of illegal workers you can rest assured that I'll have enough beer money! But I'll also be getting a fair amount of exercise so no, those pastries will NOT get the best of me and I'll be learning a ton about the city, meeting lots of new people, and contributing to the support of new bicycle trails being implemented by the government.

To learn more about BikingBA go to: BikingBuenosAires.com! xo