Buses a Bodegas

Tensions are rising in Buenos Aires due to recent government policy adjustments and it seems as though we picked the perfect week to flee from the highly politicized capital and catch some fresh air in the lovely town of Mendoza. (This link by the way takes you to the Ministry of Tourism. Trust me ladies, stop by on your way through town. Mendoza really knows what it has to offer and they are in no shortage of Mendocinos to point you in the right direction.) Known for its sprawling wineries overlooked by one of the most spectacular mountain ranges in the world, this place is enough to make you forget that Argentina is going through some serious internal battles. So as thousands of Porteños marched on Plaza de Mayo last Thursday night we watched calmly from our hotel room, sipping a bottle of lovely Malbec, and thanking the lord that I had moved a week early. (My previous home was just a few blocks from Congress. I don't anticipate any serious decrease in political charge, meaning more and more traffic-stopping protests, drum beating, flier throwing and the loud cannon-like firework explosions typical of all marches.)

The shard proof window shade

Our trip didn't however start off so smoothly. Fernanda, Maria and I caught a bus from the Retiro Terminal on Saturday evening and settled in for our 14 hour ride. A nice gentlemen across the alley nonchalantly asked us to pull our window covers closed explaining that kids often throw rocks in the area of Luján. What?... We were skeptical. Porteños  know everything and are always sure to tell you what they think, give advice, and insist on the following of their instructions so we guessed, just another paranoid porteño, make him happy, close the shades. Two hours later: BAAM! Two windows, directly across from our seats, shattered everywhere! He was completely serious. We were utterly shocked. A short drive to the next terminal followed by a two hour wait (at least we had a movie) for the replacement bus and we were back on the road. Rocks and windows being our only hiccup, we arrived safely and well rested the next morning ready to take on the wine country.

Pancho the Hotel Zamora pup

Our romantic first dinner
with the lovely red wine
at Ocho Cepas. 

Day one was very calm. We met up with the family of Maria's friend and shared an awesome Peruvian lunch: Ceviche, calamari, beans, rice, and most importantly REAL hot sauce. We wandered the city center, visited Parque San Martin which is absolutely beautiful and began to enjoy the much slower pace of life. Learning that siestas, which don't exist in BA are alive and well in the rest of the country. Dinner was at an amazing restaurant half a block from the hotel where we enjoyed our favorite wine of the trip (an AltaVista Malbec) and I had my best meal: a mixed greens salad with trout and almonds. And since about 85% of happiness on my vacations are dependent upon the food I eat, expect to hear about a lot more meals in the next couple posts.

Who doesn't LOVE mini ice creams???

Which reminds me! I almost forgot to share that we found the most amazing ice cream shop, Bianco & Nero of which I'm convinced also has a locale in BsAs. Don't worry, I WILL find it! We were of course undecidedly gawking at each flavor when they offered us tastes of almost every one, some served in miniature elf sized cones, making the experience even that much 'cuter'. Cubana was a favorite: creamy mandarin flavored ice cream with dark chocolate chunks and candied orange zest. I was also a big fan of the mascarpone with forest fruits, but saved that for round two. And Maria, being from Costa Rica, was pleasantly surprised by the decent cup of coffee they serve which I promise, is hard to come by in Argentina.